A backdrop of History on China street/Lane, Lancaster

China Lane

A journey through time in Lancaster's 'Whitechapel'

We know of China Street in Lancaster today, the long Cues of traffic, the noise bolstering in the ears of us locals as we casually walk down the street, the lights changing quicker than the gloom of this City's Weather. But if you ever happen to stroll down this road between the early hours of the morning when everyone has returned to their nests, you'll notice a glimpse of Lancaster's past still standing through to the present and you'd be quite right in thinking these Buildings tell a tale or two, long after their neighbours have since been forced into Lancaster's History. They could tell you that this street, or so it was Lane, was once the ^"centre of the poor" during the 19th century. It was crammed with brothels, inns and lodging houses and with a touch of similarity between London's Whitechapel of the 1880s, although massively smaller. The area was overcrowded and with endless stories of crime. The working, living and sanitation conditions for those who lived in the area were horrendous. China lane, a lane so narrow it was once said in 1891 that "a couple of two wheeled vehicles of modern description could not pass each other if meeting in them". Other accounts recall Stagecoaches travelling through the narrow Lane and at times leaving scratches amongst the buildings with the horns of the stagecoach resounding from wall to wall as they past through on they're trips through the once main highway of Lancaster.

By all accounts this lane was no more than 8ft 6 inches wide, an unbelievably small entrance through the city by today's standards.

China Lane circa 1890.

Photo courtesy of Lancaster City museum archive collection

For many years China Lane was the main road through Lancaster and centuries before 1802, had been used as the main route across the old medieval bridge over the River Lune. The bridge was first recorded in 1215 and was the main link through the Town of Lancaster until the "new bridge" later named Skerton bridge, was built in 1787

The bridge soon became abandoned and left to fall to ruins without repairs. The north side of the bridge was to fall first after John Brockbank of the Brockbank shipbuilding company, now the site of Sainsbury's, bought the bridge in the August of 1802, leaving the rest of the structure dilapidated in the river.

The last day anybody walked across the "old" bridge was on August 9th 1802

John Brockbank's idea of removing the arch, was to permit his ships to launch from his yard to the Quay with their masts still standing rather than adding them after sailing past the bridge.

The last arch of this ancient bridge fell on December 28th 1845 as noted by the Lancaster Gazette newspaper

John Speed's 1607 map of Lancaster, showing China Lane named as Kelne lane (number 15) being the main route through the Town and across the old bridge

China lane has been called a few names through the years, from Chinnel lane to Channel lane, Channel coming from a Danish word and which the Saxons called Keld. We have records of Cheiney lane, Chiney lane and even Cherry lane in the late 18th century, although where the word China comes from, I do not know. We do know however that during the 17th century, China lane was known as Chiney lane, as seen from the 1684 map of Lancaster by Kenneth Docton. Using original survey maps found in Townley Hall in Burnley in 1952, he was able to compile together this map which gives us a fantastic look at Lancaster during the year 1684, 14 years prior to the great fire of Lancaster which burnt 20 dwellings on the northern side of Church street just north of China lane. Given this map we also know of the residents who resided in this small lane, including two possible Inn's. most of the original houses you see in the photographs of China lane, exist from this period of the late 17th century and were renovated only slightly during the next 200 years. during the 17th and early 18th century towards the eastern side of China lane, there was an Inn called the Vicarage, this inn would later be renamed the Spink bull.

it was built similarly to that of the Sun Inn on Church street, and was one of the more ancient establishments for drinking in Lancaster. First recorded in 1791 as the Spink Bull, or as it was once known the Vicarage, was another building believed to have been the place in which Bonnie Prince Charlie resided on his way through Lancaster in 1745, even though 76 Church street has the plaque confirming his stay. Many stories lay within the former walls of the Spink bull, from a place in which locals had there final drink before suddenly passing away to harbouring prostitutes and other known criminals in the Town. Amongst other notorious crimes the Spink bull would lose it's respectability for a time with the locals when a story was released of one Landlords wife who was found guilty of poisoning. But one must digress that however many crimes appeared within this Inn, you must not take away it's nobility for once being a respectable inn before China lane fell upon hard times.

The exterior of the building was renovated in 1896 before losing it's license in 1901. During the 1960s, the building of the Spink Bull was then massively renovated leaving only parts of the structure left which we can still see today

Right Side From market St Left Side Of Market St

2. Henry Simkin 1. Robert Kellor

4. Thomas Briggs 3. J.S Addison

6. George Hodgson 5. Tsa Yates (The Mare Maid)

8. Elizabeth Horsford

Map of 1684, by Kenneth Docton

During the 18th century, China lane looked to have much potential which most likely came partly due to the port of Lancaster and the finances brought into the Town. Like many areas of high prosperity, Queen st, St Marys Parade, Castle Park and Church st, We know of Captains living in China Lane, the likes of Captain Beckett and Captain Hodgson in 1766, two years after the construction of our Custom house in 1764 located on St George's Quay. Other Known residents of that same year include Saddlers like James Willan, Linen Drapers like George Jackson, a local Hairdresser called James Fayrer and Thomas Smith who was a Cord Wainer.

We have evidence of small modernizing in China lane during the late 18th century with the now grade II listed sandstone building, Labelled as no.37-41. This was built as three houses and by looking at them, one would guess for families of the higher class. This gives us one of many indications of potential in this area and the changes in which were most likely proposed from an earlier date. China lane went with yet another name during the late 18th century, being labelled as Cherry lane and in 1794, I believe hit its biggest potential to date, having occupations the likes of:

James Warton - Reverend

Robert Anderton - Cabinet maker

John Barebone - Liquor merchant

Thomas Shaw - Clock maker

William Smith - Tailor

While China lane, or as we now know it was called Cherry lane during this period, had prosperity amongst the locals of the area, it also housed 7 inns between the East and West side. We know the inn's names, with some being a popular destination with the locals of Lancaster like the Spink Bull named earlier. Elizabeth Bateman ran the Bay horse inn which was situated at the southern end of the lane on the east side, now the site of the former Castle hotel which today we know as The Pub. this original 17th century inn was known as a busy, vibrant and relatively cheap place to drink and lasted until the end of the 19th century just after the transformation of China Lane into China street. Other popular inns down here were the Dog and Partridge later named the Dog, before being renamed as the Volunteer inn around 1810. The Dog and Partridge was located half way down on the east side and was ran by Robert Warbrick between 1794-1799. one of the more quieter places to drink was the Hole in the wall which in comparison to the others, seemed a low key area for disturbances. Below is an indication of the 7 Inns of China lane between the end of the 18th century and 19th century and the price in 1814:

The Bay Horse (east side) £30
Ship Inn, later Coach & Horses (west side)
Hole In The Wall (east side)
The Golden Fleece until 1820, Later The Lord Nelson (west side)
The Bull, Later The Spink Bull (east side) £30
Three Tuns (west side) £39
The Dog and Partridge until around c.1809, Later The Volunteer (east side)

Often mistaken in local history books for the building next door

The Spink Bull was built similarly to that of the Sun Inn on Church street, and was one of the more ancient establishments for drinking in Lancaster. Although we can say it was first recorded in 1791 as the Spink bull, it originally dates back to the early 18th century and was known as the Vicarage. With many folk tales spreading across Lancaster like wild fire, the Spink bull or as it was once known the Vicarage, was another building believed to have been the place in which Bonnie Prince Charlie resided on his way through Lancaster in 1745, even though 76 Church street has the plaque confirming his stay. Many stories lay within the former walls of the Spink bull, from a place in which locals had there final drink before suddenly passing away to harbouring prostitutes and other known criminals in the Town. Amongst other notorious crimes the Spink bull would lose it's respectability for a time with the locals when a story was released of one Landlords wife who was found guilty of poisoning. But one must digress that however many crimes appeared within this Inn, you must not take away it's nobility for once being a respectable inn before China lane fell upon hard times.

The exterior of the building was renovated in 1896 before losing it's license in 1901. During the 1960s, the building of the Spink Bull was then massively renovated leaving only parts of the structure left which we can still see today

The Dog and Partridge, Later The Volunteer Inn, Seen Here Towards The End of The 19th Century As a Lodging House

original photograph with kind permission by Lancaster City Museum, research of this old Inn by Phil Martin

The Spink Bull pictured here towards the end of China Lane's History.

circa 1896 and again in 2023

Once known in the early 18th century as the Vicarage inn\

Photograph with kind permission by Lancaster City Museum

In accordance to the year 1784, we know that the population of China lane was that of 399 residents, 191 males, 208 females and a total of 91 families living here, through oven house gate to the yard and also back China lane which ran adjacent to the west side. We can compare that with the Population of 1891, giving us a slight increase to 429 people living in this area 100 year's later..

Residing in China Lane in the first quarter of the 19th century was a very famous name, which became quite popular amongst the locals of Lancaster. A cat by the name of Grimalkin, who at first was the local mice catcher but later becoming a mother figure to them. many locals would often find Grimalkin sitting with the mice and comforting, singing and licking them. she would often be seen calling for them and to the surprise of the locals, when the mice saw the cat, they would run to her.

The entrance to oven house yard where a gate would of once stood. It was a building located on the west side of China lane and contained a communal bake oven in which anyone who was unable to afford a stove could have meals cooked for them. The oven house gate would also be the entrance to Back China Lane

Photo courtesy of Lancaster City museum archive collection

Looking north through China Lane/street c.1890-2022

original photograph with kind permission by Lancaster City Museum

during the 19th century, China lane started to decline at a higher rate than most areas of the Town, the potential in which was once proposed to this area had long but been forgotten and by the year 1811, we see the first recorded crime hit the the small lane. A woman by the name of Bella Lewis, who was committed to Lancaster Castle and charged with the murder of her child, a crime we'll see an increase of over the next 85 years. a particular necessity which was never addressed was is the lack of food in this area of Lancaster, one lady in particular who hadn't eaten for over two days and who's husband had lost his job as a Tailor, decided to jump into the river lune as she saw it the only way out. Thankfully two men had seen her and upon doing so managed to save her. Many residents of the Town saw sympathy when reading this but unfortunately nothing was done to prevent any further situations happening regarding poverty.

Through the years and even today China lane has always been labelled as a notorious neighbourhood, like myself calling it "the centre of the poor", however I must digress that this isn't the case, for I can say that between the families in which resided here, lived a man by the name of Mr. Charles Kirby. A man who lived at the oven house gate in China Lane and who in 1818 invented machinery for cleaning chimneys and prevented the use of Sweeping boys. Sweeping boys were generally used to fit in the chimneys as young men or adults could not. Boys as young as 4 or 5 would squeeze into these chimneys and start to clean them, resulting in many children getting stuck as most chimneys were as narrow as 81 square inches. Things would turn worse for most children as when stuck they could go on to suffocate and many cases can prove this. Thankfully Charles Kirby was a savour to those children with his invention.

Strange rows and brutal fights became the normality of this lane, with quite a devastating yet bloody story which is now long forgotten in Lancaster's many gruesome history. On the evening of the 12th April 1828 in the house of one, Mr. Robert Simpson, a woman by the name of Sarah Parker, Slashed her 12 year old daughters throat before slicing her own. It is not known why Sarah did this to herself and her Daughter but sadly Sarah went on to be admitted in the Lancaster lunatic asylum. In the July of that same year Mr. William Casson proceeded with hanging himself in the lord Nelson public house (now the site of Atkinson's warehouse shop) He was an occasional employee of the landlord and at times struggled with low moods and experienced episodes of derangement. He was found in the rear part of the premises, in a room used to store wood.

The Lord Nelson Inn where Mr William Casson hung himself, shown here in around 1894

Photo courtesy of Lancaster City museum archive collection

There are many other tragic stories which happened far to often down this narrow and at most times Dark lane. Many lives were succumbed to Tragic endings due to poor living conditions and mental health, no money and at times little food. One tragic tale from an incident in 1876 includes that of a Woman who went by the name of Mrs. Elizabeth Bleasdale, the wife of Mr. Bleasdale who was a grocer at the time of this event. Elizabeth had been complaining about her life and the living conditions in which they lived. She had already threatened to end her life and telling her husband he decided to keep an eye on her. She was soon found the next morning partially dressed hanging in their kitchen, although still warm she was pronounced dead.

Newspaper extract from the Lancaster Guardian from 1876

One Family which seems quite interesting to mention are that of the Feehan family who resided at no.30 China lane (the same address in which the Bleasdale family previously lived) using the building as a lodging house. Like most lodging houses in China Lane, the Feehan property brought in many families which the Lancaster Police force deemed "the worst kind of people" and they would often do regular checks among the locals of the lane. The Feehan family often found themselves in the papers for all the wrong reasons, which mostly included drink related subjects. one man in particular from the family, Patrick Feehan, was quite notorious for causing a stir in the area and would often find himself in the hands of the law, spending over 5 visits to the prison at Lancaster Castle.

The Feehan family would later move to Bridge lane but sadly for Patrick, his life would be cut short at young age 24, as in 1897 he committed suicide. It would be rather easy to judge these locals in China lane for the crimes which they committed, I'll leave it up to the reader to make their opinion whether you think they should all be judged together, or that they didn't stand a chance in life because of the area in which they lived, as the rest of Lancaster deemed them "a contamination of the Town"

Newspaper clipping from February 1891, showing Patrick Feehan being found guilty of assaulting a married woman with a fireplace poker stick in which he stored at his mother's lodging house

Believed to be The Feehan family, seen here standing outside no.30 China lane. c.1890

photo courtesy of Lancaster City Museum

China lane prior to being demolished 1894.

Photo, courtesy of Lancaster City museum archive collection

China lane was considered by the locals, a place you would not like to have walked down amidst the night, with brutal fights and stabbings being that of a common tale within the majority of the locals of Lancaster. One story I will touch on, way back in 1893, was that of a man by the name of Mr. John Kitcher, a Sergeant in the fourth kings own regiment, who while walking down China Lane was viciously attacked by three men, John Miller James Kearns and Ed Johnson. They left him almost naked and with his shirt covered in blood, he was robbed of 10s his sword and his personal chain. He was taken to hospital and survived. The last of the untimely tales I will mention are that of a Mr. Thomas Ryan, who while walking down China Lane on the 30th June 1894 was to meet his match. He was struck on his head by two Individuals named, Edward Gawkin and his wife Mary. He was thrown to the ground and Edward continued to thump his head on the floor while his wife Mary proceeded with striking his head a number of times with a tin can. He was later found and sent to hospital, the couple were found guilty and hung there heads in shame during there court hearing.

China lane during the 1890s.

Photograph courtesy of Lancaster City museum archive collection

Map of China Lane after 1870, indicating the inn's and numbers from each residence

Other than the violence, China lane had a large number of Prostitutes which were certainly popular amongst the men, There has been stories of not only meeting the men in China lane, brothels and alleys backed on, but also behind the castle and around the Priory. During the years 1888-1889 China lane went through planning permissions and was later agreed to pull down the west side of the lane and widen it for transportation use. in 1895, before most of the other side was redeveloped. Many changes happened to China Lane and on September 18th 1899, changed it's name changed to China Street. Upon the demolition of China Lane, a snippet from the Lancaster Guardian sums up this area in their opinion.

We can only look to the future...To sweep away the slums..the dirty, narrow, unhealthy and insanitary slums. what will cost £13,000 to do this, can only be looked at as a positive.. the once respectable China Lane which became the home of the depraved section of the community and embraced the thief, the bully, the unfortunate and included the scum of the town...

When this dirty, dusty, criminal haunted China Lane has passed away and we have in it's place a noble street of handsome buildings...can we have a bright future in the Town of Lancaster.

Photographed from where the Oven house gate would have stood after demolition c.1895.

Photo courtesy of Lancaster City museum archive collection

Extract taken from the Lancaster Guardian, 1891

Upon demolition to the West side of China Lane in 1895, many historical pieces were uncovered, including two old wells which were then re-opened.

Also under the rubble of the Buildings, were over a dozen coins scattered within the ground dating back to the reign of Charles I, George III and George IV, aswell as Roman artifacts towards the north end of China lane.

Numbers 47-49 on the east side were grade ii listed buildings and had survived the extension like few others did, but were sadly pulled down in 1973, under confusing circumstances.

We may have only 3 structures remaining from China Lane but when the traffic dies down and you walk among these forgotten footsteps, may you just remember the unfortunate lives of those succumbed to life here in Lancaster.

To sum up China Lane and living in 19th Century Lancaster, I've shared a poem below, written by a Mr John Briggs

Night long had closed over China Lane, deep silence for a while did rein, as the ruins pausing, I saw a figure, old and hoar, in clothes that our great grandsires wore, or else I was but dozing. With noiseless tread I ventured near, the words he said to rightly hear, for he was loudly speaking, but cautions, had to pick my way. Lest something trod on should betray, by tumbling down or breaking "Alack alack" he cried. Where must my ghostly shadow hide, the old home has now vanished, some other structure. slim and weak, the goths who live in these dark days rebel against their fathers ways, sneer at our good old houses, and yet the dens they erect, not built to stand, though gaily decked, my angry passion rouses, our streets too narrow, are by half to satisfy the modern calf, he cannot air his graces and so he pulls good houses down, that were once valued in his Town, to put worse in their places Oh! when I trod my native Earth, ere death found me another birth, in peace the years went gliding, no mighty change disturbed us then, for we were simple plodding men. At home content abiding, but now the world rolls on by steam, or flies on the electric stream, man from his thrown, degraded machinery usurps his place, makes work but scan't hard is his case, for all his hopes have faded, before mine eyes I see once more, the scenes and formes, that blessed of yore, ere's death sure stroke removed me, for long I dwelt contented here, with my sweet wife and children dear, who well and truly loved me, in fancy still at morn, I hear the guards resounding horn, as over the rough road sweeping, the mail coach from the south arrives, and stirs our even placid lives, set's hearts all widely leaping, the moderns boast with lofty pride, how their towns grow on every side, but by the quay side going, I find no vessels as of yet, that freighted came with welcome store and white sails freely flowing

The custom house, what is it now? Oh, take the devastating plough, what is it now, leave not one stone remaining, for modern goths, alas! Remaining, I mourn it greatness, now decayed, the sight is ever paining, the Danish bridge that long withstood the battling of the rushing flood, is gone yes! Gone forever, progressive man has pulled it down, the pride, the glory of our town, and deemed that he was clever,

This street is doomed to perish, and I must seek another place, far from the home that housed my race, the home I fondly cherished, it is the councils aim to sweep away it’s very name, and in commemoration of this their deed, what vanity, I’m told we very soon shall see, a street called corporation.

Well I must go look around, and see what place can yet be found, remote from corporate bodies, who think their grandsires, long gone dead, and laid within the graves cold bed, were but a set of noddies, with that he vanished from my sight, just like a meteor in the night, and left behind no traces, though very much I wish to know, for certain where he meant to go, among other scenes and faces.

But over his words I pondered long and like him thought t’was surely wrong, though holding with progression, to wipe old landmarks quite away, the names might be allowed to stay, unchanged in our possession.

John Briggs